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  • soccer graffiti outside an espresso bar

    Where to eat in Rome (circa 2002)

    Allow me to sweep the dust off this blog, so I can quickly post a list of cheap eats in Rome’s Centro Storico. I’ve emailed variants of this guide to traveling…

  • borgo pio sunset


    …and so it’s a 5am cab ride to Fiumicino, her eyes closed and dreaming to the taxi dispatcher’s lullaby, who is calling over and over for cinque cinque or quaranta sei, with…

  • espresso bar sign, rome

    Recent heat

    The heat, as singer/songwriter Glenn Frey once observed, is on. It’s been day after day of inhospitably high temps, 30’s C & 90’s F, but the whallop of humidity, stickily slathered across…

  • Rome

    Madrid + Mark Rothko

    We’re back from a week in Madrid, and still trying to sort out impressions from the place. Though this much i can recommend right away: rent yourself a rowboat at Buen…

  • Fiat 500 (Cinquecento)

    Second breakfast, sizing issues

    Remember how Pippin wails, “But what about second breakfast?” at Aragorn in Lord of The Rings? That line’s our new in-joke about italian cappuccino. Okay, so it’s not particularly novel to…

  • lambretta motorino, rome, italy

    Vespas, parakeets, and (web)monkeys

    The pet store behind the market has a parakeet who screeches “Ciao!!” when you walk in the door. He’ll say other stuff in Italian, too. And for some reason, this impresses…

  • Rome

    Pinguino air conditioner

    The big news of late: our little ’Pinguino’ just got delivered. You see, old italian palazzos like ours lack internal HVAC infrastructure (obviously), but some still avoid the brutish business of…