How’s this for a gripping opening line: “Yesterday, i had the oddest haircut.” Let me qualify that, then: I’ve had my fair share of curious coifs back home – attributable to…
Remember J.F. Sebastian’s little car in Blade Runner? The one not unlike a mini airport-shuttle van conversion, which Syd Mead had remodeled and re-shaped with his trademark rhomboid angles? I did…
The other night, walking around the Vatican’s walled borders, we came across an overpass I’d noticed before, but never given any thought. There’s a flight of stairs leading to the top,…
Walking back from the outdoor market at Andrea Doria, Azure and I were accosted by a restaurant tout. With folded red napkins over one arm, and laminated English-language picture menus tucked…
Watching vespas jockey for position as they barrel down the Lungotevere, one realizes these fearless riders are indeed the cultural (if not genetic) inheritants of the whole Ben-Hur business of chariot…
The most beautiful spot in Rome that I know is the Protestant Cemetary, a curiously silent and shaded place that’s kept hidden by the looming Cestius Pyramid, some crumbling remnants of…
Hostaria ‘da Cesare’ is Rome’s equivalent to SF’s ‘Tadich Grill’ – a restaurant oddly immune to time, monumental certainly, but too slammed with customers to bother acting chic. The waiters here…