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  • Pasticceria Valzani SNC

    Pasticceria Valzani chocolate eggs

    We picked up a big chocolate egg today, from my favorite candy shop in town, cioccolateria Valzani, a slightly-worn mom-and-pop affair (well, grandmom-and-pop, these days) tucked away on Via del Moro,…

  • antenna picture

    Alternate programming

    Came across a truly strange artifact on TV last night, while taking a breather from war coverage on RAI: the ‘Whacketts’ episode of Max Headroom, a now-quaint cyberpunk TV series from…

  • vatican from cupola

    Church steps

    As a matter of habit, and I think a good habit at that, Az and I take a stroll after dinner almost every night. (Fair disclosure: this may largely be driven…

  • lambretta motorino, rome, italy


    So Rome is noisy. From what I can tell, it’s just three basic phonemes, sent in serial, repeated ad nauseum: the flatulent exhaust of motorini throttling and scooting about, a panoply…